How to read a home inspection report

A home inspection report can run dozens of pages and list problem after problem — which is unnerving the first time you see one. It helps to know what you’re actually looking at. An inspection is a visual, non-invasive lookat the accessible parts of a home on the day it’s inspected. It is not a code inspection, not a warranty, and not a pass-or-fail grade. Its only job is to tell you the condition of the home so you can decide what to do.

What the inspector looks at

A standard inspection covers the readily accessible, visible systems:

• Roof, gutters, and exterior (siding, decks, walkways)
• Foundation, basement or crawlspace, and visible structure
• Attic, insulation, and ventilation
• Electrical, plumbing, heating, and central air conditioning
• Interior walls, ceilings, floors, windows, and doors
• Fireplace and built-in appliances

What it doesn’t cover

Just as important is what an inspection isn’t. Inspectors don’t open walls or assess anything concealed, underground, or otherwise inaccessible, and they don’t predict how long something will last. They’re generally not required to test for radon, mold, asbestos, lead, or pests, judge structural adequacy, verify code compliance, or estimate repair costs. Systems like septic, wells, pools, and sewer linesare usually separate add-on inspections. If something matters to you and isn’t in the standard scope, ask for it specifically.

How to actually read it

Most reports open with a summaryof the most significant findings, followed by a detailed, photo-by-photo body. Findings are usually grouped by severity — something like safety hazards, major defects, minor defects, and routine maintenance — though the exact labels vary by inspector. Start with the summary, then read the full entry (and look at the photos) for anything flagged as a safety or major issue.

If you can, attend the inspection. The CFPB notes that being there makes the report far easier to interpret — you can see the issue, understand it, and ask questions on the spot.

What’s normal, and what’s serious

There’s no such thing as a clean report. Every home — new ones included — comes back with a long list, and that’s expected. The point isn’t a perfect score; it’s information. Don’t let the sheer number of items rattle you. Focus your attention on safety and the big-ticket systems: the roof, the foundation and structure, electrical, HVAC, and any sign of water getting in. A sticking door is a Saturday fix. A cracked foundation is a decision.

What to do with it

• Negotiate.You can ask the seller to make repairs or give you a credit toward the cost — often the cleaner option, since it lets you handle the work your way after closing.
• Order follow-ups.If the report flags something outside the standard scope, bring in a specialist — a sewer scope, a radon test, or a structural engineer for a foundation question.
• Walk away.If your contract has an inspection contingency, you can cancel without penalty if you’re not satisfied. Schedule the inspection early so you have time to negotiate or order follow-ups before that window closes.

One specific to know: for radon, the EPA recommends fixing the home at 4 pCi/L or higher and considering action between 2 and 4, with a valid test running at least 48 hours.

Read it as a to-do list, not a verdict. Sort the safety and big-ticket items from the routine ones, get numbers on anything major, and you’ll know exactly what’s worth negotiating — and what’s just part of owning a home.